If you wear foundation, chances are you'll have experienced cakey makeup on occasion! Unfortunately, ‘cakiness’ happens to the best of us. But why is that you might be asking?
No matter how carefully you've applied your makeup, sometimes foundation just seems to settle into fine lines, cling to dry patches or sit on top of your skin rather than blending seamlessly into it. And annoyingly, adding more foundation or powder to try and fix it can often make matters worse! Luckily though, cakey makeup is often surprisingly easy to fix (and even easier to prevent) once you know what's causing it. From how you prep your skin to the amount of foundation and powder you're applying, a few small changes can make all the difference.
So, keep reading to find out why your makeup is looking cakey, how to fix it without starting all over again and, most importantly, how to stop it happening in the first place.
Why your makeup looks cakey
First things first, why does foundation sometimes end up looking cakey in the first place?
One of the biggest culprits is dry or dehydrated skin. When the surface of your skin is dry, flaky or lacking moisture, foundation can cling to those areas rather than blending smoothly across them. And yes, there's a difference between dry and dehydrated skin! Dry skin lacks oil, while dehydrated skin lacks water, which means even oily or combination skin can be dehydrated.
But your skin isn't always to blame! Applying too much foundation or concealer, layering products too quickly, using formulas that don't work particularly well together and, perhaps one of the biggest offenders, too much powder can all leave makeup looking heavy or textured.
Your foundation formula matters too. Rather than assuming dry skin always needs liquid foundation and oily skin needs something matte or powder-based, look for a formula that works with your individual skin, the finish you prefer and the amount of coverage you actually need.
How to fix cakey makeup when it happens
Before you even think about washing everything off and starting again, try this!
1. Don't add more foundation
It can be tempting to cover cakey areas with another layer, but more product usually means more texture.
Instead, take a clean, slightly damp makeup sponge and gently press it over the areas where your makeup looks heavy. Don't rub or drag it across your skin. The idea is to lift away a little excess product while pressing what's left back into the skin.
Try: ELES Pro Blender Sponge. Use it slightly damp and gently bounce or press rather than swipe.
2. Add a little moisture back in
If your foundation is looking particularly dry or powdery, a light facial mist can help soften the finish.
Mist lightly over your face, give it a few seconds to settle, then gently press your damp sponge over any problem areas. We're talking a light mist, not enough to leave your makeup dripping wet!
3. Fix the problem area, not your entire face
Cakey makeup is often concentrated around the nose, chin, forehead or anywhere foundation has collected in fine lines or dry patches.
So rather than adding another layer of makeup everywhere, concentrate on that particular area. Remove or blend away the excess first and only add the tiniest amount of concealer or foundation afterwards if you genuinely need more coverage.
Remember sometimes taking product away is the fix, rather than adding more!
What to do to avoid cakey makeup
Even better than knowing how to fix cakey makeup? Preventing it from happening at all! To do so you need to;
1. Prep your skin properly
Makeup will generally sit better on skin that's comfortable, hydrated and properly prepped.
Start with your usual skincare routine and choose hydration according to what your skin actually needs. If dehydration is an issue, a hydrating serum containing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid can be a useful addition beneath your moisturiser.
Exfoliation can also help if dead skin build-up is contributing to roughness or flakiness, but don't exfoliate simply because you're planning to wear foundation! How often you exfoliate should depend on your skin, the exfoliant you're using and what else is in your routine.
And finally, give your skincare and SPF a little time to settle before applying your makeup! Piling foundation straight over skincare that hasn't absorbed properly can encourage products to move around, pill or sit unevenly.
2. Use primer where you need it
Do you have to use a primer? No. But a good
primer evens out your skin texture, making the surface of your skin smoother, so that your makeup glides on effortlessly and appears well blended. It can also help with longevity meaning your makeup will remain perfectly intact for longer!
The key is choosing the right primer for your skin. If your complexion tends to look dry or dull, we’re currently loving the new ELES Lumière Glow Perfecting Primer, which helps create a smooth, luminous base for your makeup.
And if your skin tends to be more on the oily side we highly recommend the
ELES Pore Perfecting Face Primer. It combats shine, helps absorb excess oil and reduces the appearance of pores, to keep foundation looking flawless all day long! Genius.
3. Choose the right foundation for your skin type
Choosing a foundation formula for your skin type is essential when it comes to fixing and preventing cakey makeup. If your skin is dry, it’s best to opt for liquid foundations as these tend to be more nourishing and hydrating than powders. For those prone to oily or combination skin, matte and powder foundations are good as they will help absorb excess oil.
4. Build your foundation rather than applying too much at once
Start with a thin layer of foundation and blend it well before deciding whether you actually need more. If there are particular areas where you want additional coverage, add a little more just there or use concealer rather than applying another full layer of foundation.
You'll usually get a much more natural-looking result, and there's far less product available to settle into every little line and crease as the day goes on!
5. Go easy on the powder
You might be a mineral powder foundation lover like me! And whether you use powder as your foundation or simply to set your makeup, it can be brilliant for reducing unwanted shine and helping everything stay in place.
But more isn't always better. Too much powder can actually emphasise dryness, texture and fine lines rather than disguising them (something that can become increasingly noticeable as we age!).
Instead, use it more sparingly to begin and concentrate powder where you really need it, such as around the nose, chin or T-zone, while keeping it lighter over any areas that are dry or textured.
Try the ELES Mineral SkinPerfect Powder Foundation SPF 15, my personal favourite! It perfects, protects, and delivers an airbrushed finish! And it’s enriched with skin-loving antioxidant extracts including Kakadu plum, pomegranate and bilberry!
6. Use a setting spray
Once your makeup is complete, finish with a nourishing face mist (or setting spray) as they will add additional hydration to the skin as well as locking in moisture which will help keep makeup in place. Pevonia’s new Hyaluronic Acid Hydra Mist is a favourite of mine. Not only does it deeply nourish the skin, rejuvenating, plumping and relieving dry flaky skin, it also helps maintain your makeup look throughout the day.
What about cakey makeup under your eyes?
The skin around our eyes is thinner than the skin on the rest of our face, so it can be particularly prone to caking and creasing (especially as we age!). Add too much concealer and powder in an attempt to disguise fine lines and dark circles and you can end up having the opposite effect, eek!
Before applying any makeup to this area, make sure your skin is well hydrated first. You can use your usual moisturiser or, for a little extra nourishment, we recommend a good eye cream.
Your choice of concealer can make a huge difference too. Look for a lightweight, hydrating formula that blends easily without feeling heavy or dry. We love the ELES Dual Action Concealer, which combines medium coverage with hydrating and smoothing skincare ingredients including peptides and hyaluronic acid.
“This product is beautiful, you only need the smallest amount. Goes on so smooth even using your fingers, best of all no caking and no sitting in your wrinkles!!!!” – Kate Amiet
And remember, less is more! Apply a small amount only where you actually need it rather than coating the entire under-eye area.
If you use powder, keep it minimal. And if you notice your concealer settling into fine lines during the day, resist the temptation to add more! Instead, try gently tapping over the area with your fingertip or a damp makeup sponge first.
And if your makeup regularly creases under your eyes, have a read of our guide to how to stop makeup from creasing under your eyes for more tips.
So, what's the secret to makeup that doesn't cake?
Ultimately, avoiding cakey makeup isn't about adding another five products to your routine. It's usually about using the right products for your skin and using less of them in the right places.
Prep your skin well, allow your skincare to settle, build foundation gradually and be strategic with concealer and powder. And if your makeup does start looking a little cakey halfway through the day? Remember: before you add anything else, try taking some product away.
A damp sponge and a little blending might be all it takes!